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Click on the buttons below for directions that apply to your particular surface.

    • Suitability
    • Repairs
    • Etching
    • Cleaning
    • Suitability
    • Plywood
    • PT Lumber
    • Tile.Linoleum.Laminate

Surface preparation is the most important part of the job...

Achieving a successful and lasting upgrade with your desired surface comes down to making sure that it is clean, dry — and not too smooth — at time of application. The good news is that there are some quick and simple ways you can make them that way — and love the results.

Use the tips in this section as they pertain to your particular project and get maximum value from your investment. Click on the buttons at left to get the facts you need.

Is the installation surface suitable for coating?
Take an honest look at the surface you want to coat and choose the best path forward.

If your concrete is in reasonably good shape – even with a few cracks or small holes – it can be easily prepared for a DAICH overlay coating.

In cases like this, the slab may need to be replaced before any overlay coating is worth attempting.

Lasting performance starts from the ground up...

A decorative stone coating like RollerRock®, SpreadRock® or SpreadStone™ will only be as dependable as the quality of surface that's beneath it.

Concrete surfaces that are NOT suitable for coating...

• badly cracked concrete slabs that continue to move
• slabs with a continually powdery surface (a possible indicator of inherently bad concrete)
• over interlocking stone pavers

Contact us for clarification about any surface or if you have any technical questions at info@daichcoatings.com or call 1-866-463-2424.

Fix structural issues before you coat...
If there are holes or cracks, now is the time to patch them up — and then make them disappear beneath your new stone finish.

While most concrete surfaces only need to be washed prior to coating, there are some cases where repairs may be necessary before proceeding.

If this applies to your particular surface, a little time spent now will make a big difference in the final appearance and long term performance of your newly finished porch, steps, patio, etc.

Cracked Concrete
1) Hairline cracks usually do not require patching and can be coated normally when the decorative finish is applied. 2) Minor cracks can be filled with ElastoLock® Flexible Rubber Spackle or a generous brush-applied coat of ElastoLock®.
3) Larger cracks will need to be filled with a suitable crack repair mortar. If the slab is still moving, the crack may reappear later on.

Heavily Pitted Concrete, Holes, etc.
Extensive surface pitting and unsightly large holes could transmit through your final finish. For ideal results, they should be skimmed smooth or filled with an adequate cement-based filler and allowed to cure fully before top-coating.

The cracks and holes were patched in the staircase above and the repairs were then protected beneath a DAICH stone coating to make the whole surface look brand new.

Contact us for clarification with any questions at info@daichcoatings.com or call 1-866-463-2424.

Is etching your concrete necessary?
If your concrete is new, very smooth, efflorescent — or all of the above — etching is recommended.

Just a few minutes of this easy process is all it takes...

For reliably coating your concrete, etching will:
✔ add bonding profile to very smooth concrete (like garage floors)
✔ open concrete pores for better penetration
✔ remove surface residues in new concrete
✔ remove efflorescence (a mineral salt that rises to the surface) and blocks adhesion.

Think of the difference between coating a smooth pane of glass and a piece of 150 grit sandpaper...

Etching concrete has traditionally been performed using “muriatic acid”, hence the term “acid etching.”

A safe and easy alternative you can use instead of traditional acid etching is "Daich Concrete Cleaner/Etcher." It's a simple all-in-one formula that lets you etch and clean your concrete at the same time.

Which do you think a coating will stick to best?

HOW-TO:
Just pour Daich Cleaner/Etcher onto wet concrete, scrub lightly and move the solution around with a stiff deck brush – and let it fizz for a few minutes.

After etching, thoroughly rinse away any residues. If the project is outdoors, follow with a good pressure wash for easiest, ultra-effective cleaning.

Do you have a question about cleaning a particular surface? We're here to help. Contact us with any questions at info@daichcoatings.com or call 1-866-463-2424.

The coating has to grab and penetrate for success
That means a good wash to remove the dirt to allow your DAICH coating to anchor firmly into the concrete.

Pressure washing doesn’t just clean the surface. It blasts out the pores to allow the coating to penetrate.

Use Daich Concrete Cleaner/Etcher before pressure washing to loosen up the dirt and open the pores.

Clean your concrete for lasting benefits.

Any dirt, flaking old paint, grease, green mold or other matter attached to the concrete surface is a physical barrier that can block adhesion of your stone coating.

Cleaning is the single most important step you can perform to protect your investment. Using the right tools, it's also very easy.

USE A PRESSURE WASHER TO CLEAN EXTERIOR CONCRETE

This is absolutely the most effective cleaning tool there is. Use at least 1700 p.s.i. with a “turbo nozzle” or “orbital tip” a few inches from the ground -- in a SLOW SWEEPING MANNER. Avoid waving the washer back and forth quickly like a leaf blower – which will eliminate ALL pressure washing benefits.

Do you have a question about cleaning a particular surface? We're here to help. Contact us at info@daichcoatings.com or call: 1-866-463-2424.

Is the wood deck surface suitable for coating?
Take an honest look at the surface you want to coat and choose the best path forward.

The better the surface, the better the bond...

Unlike concrete, wood is a complex structure of organic fibers that will react with water, heat, impact and overall movement. The result is a surface that poses additional challenges when it comes to long term bond and visual appeal of applied coatings.

If you've had to strip and re-paint / re-stain your peeling deck on numerous occasions, you've had plenty of experience with this reality first-hand.

You need to start with a surface that will co-operate with your plans. Wood that is in reasonably good condition can be coated with great and lasting success with a recommended Daich Coatings finish for decks.

Some surfaces, however, are best avoided or will require corrective measures before proceeding.

Wood deck surfaces that are NOT suitable for coating...

Condition Corrective Action (if any)
• wood covered with a previous coating that is peeling • strip down to bare wood
• oily wood such as cedar • do not coat
• wood with extreme checking / cracking • replace affected wood
• weak and/or spongy wood with obvious signs of rot • replace affected wood
• plywood on an unsound structure • Improve structure

Contact us for clarification about any surface or if you have any technical questions at info@daichcoatings.com or call 1-866-463-2424.

Plywood Preparation...
The key with wood is to be sure it is dry, clean, free of sanding dust and peeling paint — and is sound.

If any portion of the plywood surface needs to be cleaned, do not use large amounts of water, which will soak into the wood. A damp sponge for quick wipes is acceptable.

Otherwise sanding is recommended to "shave off" problematic areas and avoid water use before coating.

A wood moisture content of about 15% is ideal.

Interior Plywood Floors

1) Tap down any nails or tighten screws. If the head of the nail or screw looks rusty, it should be replaced with a new galvanized one.
2) Scuff the surface with 100 grit sandpaper to add surface tooth for better bond.
3) Vacuum all sanding dust CAREFULLY. Good vacuuming, means good performance.
4) Treat the seams between plywood sheets with DAICH ElastoLock Rubber Membrane Coating and Elastolock Seam Mesh.

>> For live action details on treating seams, view the ElastoLock® instruction videos for wood decks on the ElastoLock product page.

4) Apply the desired spreadable stone finish as directed.

Exterior Plywood Decks

1) Tap down any nails in the boards or tighten deck screws. If the head of the nail or screw looks rusty, it should be replaced with a new galvanized one.
2) Scuff the surface with 100 grit sandpaper to add surface tooth for better bond.
3) Vacuum all sanding dust CAREFULLY. Good vacuuming, means good performance.
4) Plywood must be at least 5/8 exterior grade on 16 joists. Posts should be installed to a depth below the frost line. Caulk all holes and gaps before proceeding with application of ElastoLock.
5) Treat the seams between plywood sheets -- and then the general surface with DAICH ElastoLock Rubber Membrane Coating, and ElastoLock® Seam Mesh and Reinforcing fabric. This will create a highly durable, resilient, water-proof base upon which you can install your desired Daich decorative stone coating.

>> For live action details on treating seams and installing the reinforcing fabric, view the ElastoLock® instruction videos for wood decks on the the ElastoLock product page.

5) Apply the desired spreadable stone finish as directed.

Contact us for clarification about any surface or if you have any technical questions at info@daichcoatings.com or call 1-866-463-2424.

Pressure Treated Prep...
The key is to get your deck boards clean, dry, dust-free – and waterproof. Just a few simple steps will get you there.

Cleaning the deck boards:

1) Wet a section of the deck with water and then pour on Daich UltraWash™ Pressure Treated Wood Cleaner. Give the planks a scrub with a deck brush to remove any dirt, surface residues and old gray wood fibers.
2) Rinse the surface thoroughly with a pressure washer to remove all wash residues.
3) Repeat these steps on remaining sections of the deck surface and then allow the boards to dry out thoroughly for a few days. (Moisture level in the wood can be accurately confirmed with a moisture meter. A reading of about 15% is ideal for long-term coating performance.)

Pre-Coat Preparation:

With the surface clean and dry, the following should be performed:

1) Tap down any nails in the boards or tighten deck screws. If the head of the nail or screw looks rusty, it should be replaced with a new galvanized one.
2) If the planks are very smooth, scuff the surface lightly with 80 grit sandpaper to add some surface profile for better bond. Thoroughly vacuum any dust created by scuffing.
3) Fill larger cracks, holes or "checking" in the boards with ElastoLock® Water-Proof Rubber Spackle for a flexible waterproof plug that will move with the surface.
4) Roll on a uniform, generous coat of ElastoLock® with a 3/8” roller. Brush ElastoLock in between the deck boards to waterproof those surfaces as well. Also, be sure to generously coat all cut ends of the planks to block water intrusion. (If possible, coat the underside of the deck with ElastoLock too, for ultimate water protection all around.)

ElastoLock will fill minor cracks and checking and create a more uniform, waterproof and resilient surface. It will also function as an intermediate coating and adhesion promoter for coatings that will follow. Allow 24 hours to dry before proceeding with the desired coating system.

Contact us for clarification about any surface or if you have any technical questions at info@daichcoatings.com or call 1-866-463-2424.

Synthetic Surface Prep...

Creating bond where there is none...

The main challenge when applying any coating to synthetic or "man-made" surfaces, is the lack of surface texture and porosity. Unlike concrete and wood, which have pores in the surface that invite penetration and anchoring of the coating, synthetic surfaces are often very smooth.
The simple way to overcome this is to rough up the surface thoroughly before coating to give your new finish something to grab and lock on to. As well, the installation surface must be clean and in good condition. The excellent bonding power of the DAICH spreadable stone products will do the rest.

Here's a detailed breakdown of what needs to be done in each specific case:

Ceramic Tile Floors and Countertops...

) Scuff with 40 grit sandpaper to break the glaze.
2) Wash the floor or countertop to remove any debris.
3) Roll on a uniform coat of ElastoLock as an adhesion promoter for coatings that will follow. Let it dry until the following day before proceeding.
4) If the existing grout line pattern will be used on the floor, roll on a coat of Daich Textured Primer. After the primer has dried fully, mask off the grout lines with Daich Grout Line tape before applying your desired floor finish.
5) If a new grout pattern (or seamless application for your floor or TILE SURFACE) is desired, skim coat the surface with polymer enhanced thinset. This will eliminate all previous grout lines for a new, flat surface.
6) Proceed with the decorative Daich Coatings floor or countertop finish of your choice, as directed.

Linoleum

1) Vigorously scuff with 40-grit sandpaper to add profile.
2) Wash the floor to remove any dirt or debris.
3) Glue down lifting or separated seams. Patch any tears or holes with ElastoLock® Spackle or cement patch.
4) Where seam movement between linoleum parts is significant, ElastoLock can be used in combination with ElastoLock Seam Mesh Tape to create a flexible join.

Laminate Countertops

1) Vigorously scuff with 80-grit sandpaper to add profile.
2) Wash the surface and let it dry.
3) Fill any separated seams and patch any holes or other damage with ElastoLock® Spackle or other filler.